What You Need to Know: Useful Information
“Pizza sotto lu focu” is a traditional dish from Umbria, especially in the Terni area and villages like Portaria and Montefranco. “Sotto lu focu” means “under the fire“, describing a unique cooking method used in its preparation where the pizza is cooked directly on hot ashes in a fireplace or open fire, covered with embers to ensure even cooking. This ancient method relies on ember heat to create a rustic and authentic pizza, dating back to a time before modern ovens. The dough is simple, made with flour, water, and salt, sometimes with the addition of yeast or baking soda to help it rise. The pizza is rolled out fairly thin and cooked for a few minutes, until the base becomes crispy and slightly blackened in places. The key feature is the direct contact with hot ashes, creating a unique texture that is crispy on the outside and soft on the inside. Pizza sotto lu focu is typically served with cold cuts, local cheeses, vegetables, and sausages, but there are also sweet versions that include chocolate cream. It is a simple dish but rich in history and flavor, reflecting the culture and rural traditions of Umbria, offering a unique experience that unfortunately many people are unfamiliar with.
Getting There
By train
To reach the heart of the territory where this dish is celebrated, you can take a Trenitalia regional or Intercity train directly to Terni railway station. From this main urban rail hub, you can easily catch local suburban train lines (like the Terni-Sulmona link) or regional buses to venture deeper into the surrounding mountain villages.
By car
Driving is the absolute best way to explore the rural valleys and hidden taverns at your own pace. From Perugia or Rome, take the SS3 bis / E45 highway and exit toward Terni, then follow the panoramic SS3 Via Flaminia or regional roads northeast toward Portaria or east toward Montefranco.
By bus
For travelers utilizing public transit, local Busitalia Umbria regional buses depart regularly from the central bus terminal in Terni, connecting the city center directly to the historic squares of smaller villages like Montefranco and Acquasparta (near Portaria).
Useful contacts
- IAT Terni – Ufficio Informazioni Turistiche (Terni Regional Visitor Hub): +39 0744 423047 | [email protected]
What to Bring & Pro Tips
Because many travelers are completely unfamiliar with this dish, the absolute best time to experience it is during the traditional summer food festivals (sagre) held in Portaria and Montefranco, so be sure to check local event calendars online before planning your dates. When visiting authentic taverns or open-hearth demonstrations where the pizza is cooked directly on hot ashes, wear casual clothing; the roaring fireplaces and crackling embers will naturally fill the room with an incredibly aromatic but heavy woodsmoke scent. If you want to taste it the local way, order the classic version stuffed with bitter wild greens and grilled local sausages, and don't hesitate to try the sweet variations filled with chocolate cream for a spectacular contrast. Lastly, always keep some cash on hand, as some of the smallest, oldest village bakeries and country festivals do not take electronic card payments.
The “Hidden Gem”
Once you have brushed the residual hearth ash from your fingers and savored this ancient recipe, leave the village kitchens behind and take a short drive to explore the breathtaking ruins of the Carsulae Archaeological Park near Portaria.
Instead of looking at standard modern town centers, this spectacular open-air archaeological site contains the remarkably preserved remains of an ancient Roman city that once thrived directly along the original path of the Via Flaminia. Walking across the massive, original stone blocks of the Roman highway – complete with deep ruts carved by ancient chariot wheels – leads you past a monumental triumphal arch, a beautifully preserved amphitheater, and historic temples. It offers a wonderfully atmospheric, historic break from the classic postcard views of the Valnerina, allowing travelers to walk through thousands of years of intact Roman history completely surrounded by wild, quiet Umbrian meadows.
