What You Need to Know: Useful Information

Long before the modern Italian aperitivo trend swept the globe, farmers in the rolling hills of Piedmont had already perfected the art of the late-afternoon feast. It is called the Merenda Sinoira, in the local dialect. The name blends merenda (snack) with sinoira (derived from sena, the dialect word for evening meal). Originating in the 19th century across the rural provinces of Asti, Cuneo, Alessandria, and Novara, this hearty culinary ritual was designed to sustain field laborers through the late-summer harvest. Today, it has evolved into a beloved social tradition – a rich, communal spread of cold dishes that bridges the gap between late afternoon and dusk, easily replacing a formal dinner.

Mastering the Merenda Sinoira: Piedmont’s Original Happy Hour Dinner -

Getting There

By Car:

The heart of this tradition beats loudest in the countryside of the Langhe, Roero, and Monferrato hills. From Turin, take the A21 highway east toward Piacenza (for Asti and Alessandria destinations) or the A6 highway south toward Savona (for Alba and Cuneo). Having a car is essential to reach the remote, authentic farmhouses where this tradition thrives.

By Train:

You can easily reach regional hubs like Asti, Cuneo, or Novara via direct regional trains from Torino Porta Nuova or Milano Centrale (approx. 45–60 minutes).

By Bus:

Local regional networks (such as Arriva Piemonte) connect major towns to surrounding villages, but timetables are sparse in the late afternoon and evenings, making public transit tricky for returning late from a dinner-snack.

Below you'll find the locations marked on Google Maps. Click on them to open the locations directly on your device's maps.

Useful Contacts

What to Bring & Pro-Tips

  • A light jacket or pashmina shawl is mandatory. The merenda transitions from late-afternoon sun to chilly twilight, especially in the breezy hillside vineyards.
  • Pacing is everything. Do not fill up on bread and grissini during the first round. The plates keep coming, and the beauty of the meal lies in trying a single bite of a dozen different specialties.
  • Don't look for this on a menu at 1:00 PM – an authentic sinoira strictly begins after 5:00 PM.

The “Hidden Gem“

If you are enjoying your merenda in the Asti or Alessandria countryside, make a afternoon stop at the Castello di Giarole or the nearby Sacro Monte di Crea. The Sacro Monte is a UNESCO-listed devotional complex nestled inside a lush nature reserve. A gentle 30-minute walk up its shaded, chapel-lined paths rewards you with an extraordinary, sweeping view of the Monferrato plains the perfect way to work up an appetite before your evening feast begins.